How to Wash Crochet Items: The Complete Guide

Washing your beloved handmade crochet items doesn’t have to be scary. With the right methods, you can clean crochet pieces while avoiding shrinkage and preserving their shape. This comprehensive guide will teach you how to wash crochet items of all kinds – from clothing and accessories to blankets and even amigurumi toys – with gentle, fiber-specific care.

We’ll cover the best washing techniques, drying methods (like laying flat and towel-pressing), and answer common questions about crochet care. Let’s keep those crochet creations fresh and beautiful for years to come!

Before You Wash: Yarn Fibers and Care Basics

Always start by checking the yarn label or care instructions if available. The yarn label tells you the fiber content (such as acrylic, cotton, wool, etc.) and often provides recommended washing methods. Follow these guidelines whenever possible. If an item is labeled “Dry clean only,” it’s safest to take it to a professional cleaner (bring the yarn label with you so they know the fiber content).

In most other cases, handwashing is the safest bet for crocheted pieces, but many sturdy items can handle machine washing with the proper precautions.

Identify the Fiber:

The fiber type of your crochet item will determine how you wash it:

• Acrylic yarn: Generally machine washable and hardy. Acrylic crochet items hold up well in cool water on a gentle cycle. They typically don’t shrink, but very high heat can damage acrylic (it’s a type of plastic), so stick to cold water and low heat drying.
• Cotton or plant-based yarn: Usually washable, but can shrink slightly or become misshapen if exposed to heat. Use cold water and gentle cycles. Cotton is heavy when wet, so support it and dry flat to avoid stretching.
• Wool or animal fiber yarn: Can shrink or felt easily with heat or agitation. Unless the wool is “superwash” (treated to be machine-washable), plan to hand wash wool crochet items in cold water. Never put non-superwash wool in the dryer (it will shrink/felt dramatically). Even superwash wool benefits from gentle handling.
• Blends: If your yarn is a blend (e.g. wool/acrylic), default to the safest method required by any component (for example, treat a 50/50 wool-acrylic blend as you would wool – gentle cold wash, no high heat).
• Delicate or luxury fibers: Fibers like mohair, alpaca, or silk should almost always be hand washed and laid flat to dry, due to their sensitivity.

Gather Your Gentle Laundry Tools:

Prepare a few items to make washing easier and safer for your crochet pieces: a mild, pH-neutral detergent, a mesh laundry bag (lingerie bag) or pillowcase, and clean absorbent towels for drying. Choose a mild detergent formulated for delicates or baby clothes (avoid harsh chemicals and bleach).

A gentle liquid detergent or wool wash will clean fibers without stripping or damaging them. If you’re washing items for a baby or someone with sensitive skin, opt for a fragrance-free, dye-free detergent.

Test for Colorfastness:

Especially for richly colored or handmade-dyed yarn items, do a quick color bleed test. Before washing the entire item, dampen a small hidden area with water and a drop of detergent, then blot with a white cloth. If color transfers, you’ll want to wash the item separately to avoid staining anything else (and keep wash water cool).

With these basics in mind, let’s dive into washing specific types of crochet items.

How to Wash Crochet Clothing (Tops, Scarves, Sweaters)

Crocheted clothing like sweaters, tops, shawls, and scarves often use natural fibers and intricate stitches, so gentle care is key. The goal is to clean the garment without causing shrinkage, stretching, or pilling. Here’s how to wash your crochet clothing:

1. Decide Between Hand Wash or Machine Wash:

If the garment is made of wool or another animal fiber, or if it has lacy/open stitches, it’s best to hand wash. For sturdier items made of acrylic or cotton, you can use the washing machine on a delicate cycle (but hand washing is never a bad choice if you’re unsure).

When in doubt, go with hand washing – it’s the safest option.

2. Hand Washing Crochet Garments:

Fill a clean sink or basin with cool to lukewarm water (not hot). Add a small amount of your mild detergent and stir to dissolve. Submerge the crochet garment and gently swish it around. Avoid vigorous scrubbing or twisting, as crochet stitches can stretch out with too much agitation.

Let the item soak for about 10–15 minutes if needed. For any soiled spots, gently rub that area with your fingers while it’s underwater (or pre-treat by dabbing a bit of diluted detergent before soaking). Once clean, rinse thoroughly with cool water until no soap remains.

3. Machine Washing Crochet Garments:

If machine washing is appropriate (commonly for acrylic, some cottons, or superwash wool garments), protect the item by placing it in a mesh laundry bag or pillowcase.

Turn the garment inside out if possible (this protects the outer surface from friction). Wash on your machine’s gentle or delicate cycle with cold water.

It’s a good idea to wash the crochet item by itself or with other light/delicate items; avoid heavy garments or items with zippers/snaps in the same load that could snag the crochet. Use only a small amount of mild detergent – more soap doesn’t mean cleaner and can be harder to rinse out of thick crochet fabric.

Do not use bleach. For wool or delicate fibers, also avoid fabric softener, as it can coat fibers and reduce breathability.

4. Rinsing and Removing Water:

After washing (whether by hand or machine), it’s critical to remove excess water without stretching the garment. Never wring or twist crochet clothing to dry – this can distort and stretch out the stitches.

Instead, if you hand washed, gently lift the garment, supporting it from underneath (wet crochet can be heavy). Let most of the water drain, then lay the item flat on a clean towel. Roll the towel up with the garment inside and press to absorb water (this is the “towel pressing” technique).

You can even step lightly on the rolled towel to squeeze more water out – the towel will soak it up. For machine-washed items, after the spin cycle, you may still want to do a towel roll to get it drier.

5. Drying and Reshaping:

Lay the crochet garment flat to dry on a fresh dry towel or a mesh drying rack. Reshape the item to its proper dimensions while damp – gently arrange sleeves, straighten edges, and ensure the measurements (like length, width) are correct.

Crochet clothing can stretch when wet, so nudging it back to the correct shape now is important. For example, if it’s a sweater, make sure the sleeve and body lengths match and the button bands are straight; if it’s a scarf or shawl, smooth out the lace or pattern and align the edges.

This process is essentially blocking the item back into shape each time you wash it. Allow it to dry fully (this can take 24 hours or more depending on thickness). Flip the garment over midway through drying and replace the underneath towel if it becomes very damp.

Avoid hanging wet crochet clothing, as the weight of water will stretch it out of shape.

Fiber-Specific Tips for Clothing:

• Wool Garments: Use cold water and hand wash for non-superwash wool to prevent felting. Use a detergent made for wool/delicates. Handle gently and lay flat to dry away from heat. Wool is naturally dirt-resistant, so you may not need to wash it frequently – sometimes airing out a wool cardigan is enough between wears.
• Cotton Garments: Cotton can handle a bit more, but it shrinks with heat, so stick to cold water. It can also stretch under its own weight when wet, so always dry flat. If a cotton top stretches wider, you can gently tug it longer while shaping to counteract that (and vice versa if it shrank a bit).
• Acrylic Garments: These are usually the easiest-care – machine wash cold, gentle cycle is fine. Just be mindful to avoid high heat in the dryer; acrylic can actually melt or deform with high temperatures. Tumble dry on low if needed, or simply lay flat to dry to be safest. Acrylic sweaters often can go in the dryer on low for a short time, then lay flat while slightly damp to complete drying.

Special Note – Scarves and Shawls:

These are often made from wool or delicate yarn in lace patterns. Follow the garment steps above; take extra care when reshaping lace – you may want to pin out the edges of a lace shawl to maintain its size while it dries (just like when you originally blocked it). For chunky winter scarves (often acrylic or wool blends), washing in a mesh bag on delicate and drying flat will usually do the trick.

Aftercare:

Once completely dry, fold or store your crochet clothing neatly. Don’t hang heavy crochet sweaters long-term – folding is better to prevent stretch lines.

You can use a sweater comb or fuzz remover to gently remove any pills (little yarn balls) that form over time. Your crochet clothes should now be clean, fresh, and ready to wear without any loss of shape or size!

How to Wash Crochet Accessories (Hats, Bags, and More)

Crochet accessories like hats, gloves, bags, and slippers often see a lot of use. They come in a variety of fibers, so adjust your method based on the material and construction. Here’s how to clean these items while preserving their form and color:

1. Prep the Accessory:

Check for any non-yarn components. Remove detachable pieces like purse liners, buttons, or straps if possible. If your crochet bag has a fabric lining or leather handles, you might unclip or cover those parts to protect them from water.

Secure any ties or drawstrings (so they don’t get pulled out during washing) – a quick knot or a safety pin can help keep them in place.

2. Choose Hand Wash vs. Machine:

For structured accessories (like a stiff brim hat or a handbag) and for any wool items, hand washing is recommended.

For softer, flexible pieces (acrylic beanies, cotton market bags), you can machine wash on delicate. Small items like hats and gloves are easy to hand wash since they don’t require a huge basin.

When using a washing machine, place accessories in a mesh laundry bag to prevent snagging on the machine or other items. Wash in cold water on a gentle cycle.

3. Washing Technique:

In a basin or sink with cool water, mix a bit of mild detergent. Submerge the hat, gloves, or bag and gently agitate.

Pay attention to soiled areas: the brim of a hat or the handles of a bag might need a bit of extra gentle rubbing with soapy water. Avoid excessive scrubbing on appliqués or attached decorations.

If machine washing, use the same cold, delicate settings and mild detergent. Wash separately or with similar colors (a bright red hat, for example, should not be washed with your white t-shirts, just in case the dye runs the first time).

4. Rinse and Remove Water:

Rinse accessories in cool water until no detergent remains.

For a crochet hat, you can support it with your hands as you rinse to avoid stretching the band. Press out water without wringing (squeeze gently). Then roll the item up in a towel to blot out excess moisture.

For a crochet bag, be careful not to hang it dripping wet by the handles – this could stretch them. Instead, put the bag on a towel, roll it up, and press to draw out water.

5. Drying and Shaping:

Proper drying is crucial to maintain shape:

• Hats: Lay the hat flat on a towel. To help a beanie keep its shape, you can stuff the hat with a dry towel or place it over a bowl or balloon roughly the size of a head. This acts like a form to preserve the crown shape and brim as it dries. Reshape any pom-poms or tassels and let them air dry. Avoid hanging a wet hat (it can lengthen the hat).
• Bags: Reshape the bag on a flat surface. For an empty tote or purse, you might stuff it with crumpled dry towels to its typical fullness, which helps it dry in the correct shape (especially important for structured purses). Check that corners aren’t getting stretched or that the bag isn’t drying warped. Stand it upright or lay it on its side, whichever maintains the form. If the straps got wet, lay them flat in their normal length rather than letting them bear weight.
• Gloves or Mittens: Lay flat and shape the fingers or thumbs to the right length. Sometimes gently putting your hand (clean and dry) into the damp glove and then laying it flat can ensure it takes the proper shape and size.
• Other Accessories: Items like crochet earwarmers or headbands should be laid flat and pulled to their original length (they often are a bit stretchy). Crochet slippers can be dried by stuffing with paper towels to maintain their foot shape.

Let accessories dry fully. This often takes overnight or longer if thick. Flip them occasionally or replace the towel underneath if it becomes very damp.

Keep drying out of direct sunlight to prevent any color fading or uneven drying (especially for dyed wools).

Fiber Tips for Accessories:

• Winter hats & gloves (wool or wool-blends): Hand wash in cold. These can felt if rubbed too much, so handle gently. Lay flat – you can even trace an outline of the glove before washing so you have a guide for reshaping it to size.
• Cotton or acrylic hats: These are usually fine in the washer (use a laundry bag). They shouldn’t shrink in cold water. Acrylic doesn’t shrink but can stretch a bit when wet, so shaping is important. Cotton hats might tighten up slightly after drying – if so, you can put it on your head for a minute when barely damp to re-stretch it to fit, then let it finish drying off-head.
• Crochet bags: Many are made with sturdy cotton (like dishcloth cotton or even t-shirt yarn). Those can be machine washed, but be cautious with spin speed – a vigorous spin can distort a bag. If the bag has any wooden or metal frame (some crochet purses do), remove it before washing or just spot-clean those areas. 

With accessories cleaned and dried, they should look as good as new. Remember to reattach any liners or straps you removed beforehand. Now you can confidently use your crochet accessories knowing they’re fresh and intact.

How to Wash Crochet Blankets (Afghans and Throws)

Crochet blankets – whether it’s a cozy afghan on your couch or a delicate baby blanket – need periodic washing to stay clean and soft. The challenge with blankets is their large size and weight when wet, so extra care is needed to prevent stretching.

Many people ask: Can you wash crochet blankets in the washing machine? The answer is yes, you often can, especially if they’re made of machine-washable yarn. Just be sure to follow these tips to protect your blanket:

1. Shake Out and Prep:

Before washing, shake out the blanket outdoors or over a sheet – this removes dust, crumbs, or pet hair so it doesn’t all end up in your wash water.

Check the blanket for any weak joins or loose ends (and secure them by re-weaving if necessary, so they don’t unravel in wash). If there are small stains, pre-treat by gently rubbing a tiny bit of diluted detergent on that spot.

2. Hand Wash for Delicate or Vintage Blankets:

If the blanket is very delicate (thin lace, antique, or made of non-superwash wool that could felt), hand washing is safest. Use a bathtub or large basin since blankets need space. Fill it with cool water and mild detergent.

Submerge the blanket and swish gently. Given the size, you may just let it soak for 15–20 minutes rather than agitating a lot. After soaking, press the water through it gently and then drain and refill with clean water to rinse. You might need to rinse a couple of times due to the blanket’s bulk.

Do not wring or twist the blanket; just press out water gently against the side of the tub.

3. Machine Wash for Sturdier Blankets:

Most modern crochet blankets made with acrylic yarn (a common choice for its durability) can be machine washed. Use a large capacity washer if possible (especially for king-size throws) so the blanket has room.

It’s best to wash the blanket alone or with only a couple of other knit/crochet items – avoid mixing with heavy clothes or towels that have zippers, etc. Set the machine to gentle cycle (or a specific blanket/bulky setting if available) and cold water.

Place the blanket in a mesh laundry bag if it’s not too large to fit. For big blankets that won’t fit in a bag, you can still reduce agitation by putting one or two other smooth items like bedsheets in the load.

This helps cushion the blanket and reduces strain on it during spinning (and as a bonus, sheets or pillowcases can help absorb moisture in the spin). Add the appropriate amount of mild detergent.

Avoid bleach – it can weaken fibers, and if the blanket is colorful, bleach will ruin it. If it’s the first time washing a particular blanket, doing it alone will ensure that if any dye bleeds, it won’t color other items.

When the wash cycle is done, support the blanket as you remove it from the washer. A wet blanket can be very heavy; scoop it up in your arms or use a plastic laundry basket to lift it out so it doesn’t stretch under its own weight.

4. Removing Excess Water:

Whether hand or machine washed, try to get as much water out as possible without wringing. For hand-washed blankets, this is the tricky part: after draining the tub, press the blanket against the bottom or sides to squeeze out water.

You can then divide the blanket into sections and gently squeeze each section. One useful method is to take the blanket in halves or quarters, lay each section on a large towel, and roll it up to press out water (you may need multiple towels).

Don’t lift the blanket while sopping wet – always support it. If you used a machine, the spin cycle should have removed a lot of water. You can run an extra spin cycle only (no rinse) if the blanket is still very wet, to pull out more water without extra agitation.

5. Drying a Crochet Blanket:

Air drying is strongly recommended for crochet blankets. The weight and heat of a dryer can cause stretching or even melting (for acrylic) if not carefully controlled. Here’s how to dry your blanket:

• Lay Flat: Find a large flat surface. This could be a clean floor (lay down a vinyl dropcloth or shower curtain liner first to protect the blanket from dirt/carpet), a bed, or multiple drying racks pushed together.

Spread out a dry towel or absorbent sheet, and then lay the blanket on top. Gently reshape the blanket to its original dimensions. Straighten edges, align any squares or stripes so they’re not skewed, and ensure corners are not pulled out or distorted.

If it’s a motif blanket (made of joined squares), check that each motif is still square and the joins are not sagging. This reshaping is important to prevent any permanent stretching.

• Support and Turn: For very large blankets, reposition the blanket periodically during drying so that it dries evenly and doesn’t have all the weight on one side for too long.

For example, after a few hours, you might flip the blanket over or move it so a different part is on the dry towel. Replace wet towels under the blanket with fresh dry ones after a few hours, as needed.

Drying can take a day or more depending on thickness and humidity, so be patient. Using a fan in the room can help speed up evaporation.

• Avoid Direct Sunlight and Heat: Sun can fade colors and too much heat can shrink or even melt certain fibers. Dry the blanket indoors or in shade. If you must dry partially outdoors, ensure it’s not under harsh sun, and don’t leave a colored blanket out too long under UV light.
• What About the Dryer? If the yarn’s label explicitly says it’s okay, you can tumble dry on low heat for acrylic or cotton blankets. This can help fluff up the blanket and remove some pet hair or lint (dryers are great at that).

However, use extreme caution with heat. Set the dryer to the lowest setting and consider putting the blanket in by itself with some clean dry towels or pillowcases to help absorb moisture.

Check the blanket every 15–20 minutes and remove it while still slightly damp to finish air drying flat (this avoids over-drying, which can cause stiffness or static).

Never machine dry wool blankets – they will shrink/felt beyond recognition. So, only consider the dryer for acrylic or cotton, and even then, air drying flat is the gentlest method to preserve shape.

Once the blanket is fully dry, fluff it by giving it a gentle shake or even tumbling it in the dryer on air-only (no heat) for 10 minutes if desired. Fluffing helps restore its softness and loft.

Check that all edges and shapes look good; if you see a corner a bit stretched, you can mist it lightly with water and reshape that area, then let it dry again.

Fold your blanket for storage – or better yet, use it! Crocheted blankets are meant to be enjoyed. Regular use and the occasional wash will keep them cozy.

By following these steps, you’ll find that you can wash crochet blankets without them coming out misshapen. They’ll stay just as warm and beautiful as before.

How to Clean Amigurumi Crochet Toys (Without Ruining Them)

Amigurumi toys – those cute crocheted stuffed animals and dolls – often become cherished friends for kids and collectibles for adults. Because they have stuffing (and sometimes plastic safety eyes or other embellishments), you might worry about how to wash them without damage.

The good news is you can clean amigurumi crochet toys safely. Here’s how to do it while keeping your plush pals in great shape:

1. Surface Cleaning for Light Dirt:

Oftentimes, your amigurumi might not need a full wash. Spot cleaning is the gentlest approach.

Use a clean cloth dampened with water (and a tiny drop of mild soap if needed) to dab any dirty spots on the toy. For example, if your crochet plush got a bit of food or dirt on it, gently pat and wipe the area with the damp cloth until the spot comes out.

Avoid saturating the whole toy if it’s not necessary. This way, you only get part of it wet and it will dry faster, minimizing any risk to fillings or details.

2. When a Full Wash Is Needed:

If the toy has been truly soiled all over (imagine a beloved teddy that’s been dragged through the playground mud or a baby’s amigurumi that’s been drooled on extensively), you’ll want to wash the whole thing.

First, determine the fiber:

Acrylic yarn is very common for amigurumi and is machine-washable, while cotton yarn is also quite sturdy.

If the amigurumi is made with wool yarn, be more cautious – wool can felt, though stuffing inside the toy can sometimes prevent extreme felting.

Also, check the stuffing: nearly all use polyester fiberfill, which is washable, but occasionally there might be pellets or wires for structure (if so, those toys should probably be surface cleaned only).

3. Hand Washing Amigurumi:

The safest method is to hand wash the toy in lukewarm water. Fill a basin with water and a small amount of mild detergent (even baby shampoo works for this small batch).

Immerse the amigurumi and gently squeeze water through it. You can let it soak for 5–10 minutes if needed. Avoid twisting or pulling any appendages (like arms, ears, etc.).

If the toy has embroidered features (eyes, mouth) with colored thread, be gentle on those areas so they don’t fray. After washing, rinse thoroughly in clean water until no soap remains.

Handle the toy carefully when lifting it out – support its full body so the weight of water doesn’t strain any sewn-on limbs.

4. Machine Washing Amigurumi:

Many crocheters successfully machine wash acrylic amigurumi toys. It’s essential to protect the toy by placing it in a mesh laundry bag or pillowcase (zip it closed).

Wash on a delicate cycle with cold water. Use the same precautions as for other crochet items: mild detergent, no bleach, and perhaps wash it with towels or other soft items rather than heavy jeans, etc.

The bag will keep the toy from snagging or getting squished too violently. According to one crafter’s experiment, acrylic amigurumi plushes can handle machine washing and even low-heat machine drying without deforming – her test crochet monkey came out “still in one piece” and clean after a gentle wash and dry cycle.

It’s reassuring to know that washing machines can be safe for acrylic toys, but if you’re nervous, stick to hand washing or put the machine on the most gentle settings.

5. Drying the Crochet Toy:

Proper drying is crucial so that the toy keeps its shape and no mold develops inside the stuffing.

After washing, press out water gently (you can roll the toy in a towel, just like with garments, to absorb moisture). Then reshape the toy. Ensure the stuffing is evenly distributed; you might need to squish the toy a bit into its normal form (for example, make sure the head is round and not misshapen, the limbs are straight).

To dry, you have a couple of options:

• Air Dry:

Lay the amigurumi on a dry towel in a well-ventilated area. If it has parts that can flop (like big ears), position them so they dry in the right shape (you could prop an ear up with the edge of a towel, for instance).

Turn the toy every few hours so all sides dry. This method is very safe and avoids any heat damage. It may take a day or more for a densely stuffed toy to fully dry, especially in humid weather – be patient, as you want it 100% dry inside out.

Placing it near (but not directly on) a gentle heat source like a radiator or a fan can speed things up.

• Machine Dry (with caution):

If the yarn is acrylic or cotton, you can try tumble drying on low heat. Keep the toy in the mesh bag and perhaps add a couple of dry towels to the dryer load.

Use the lowest heat setting or even no-heat air fluff. Check the toy every 10 minutes. The same crafter’s test mentioned above found the toy was “sparkly clean” and intact after 30 minutes on delicate in the dryer.

If your toy has safety eyes (plastic), low heat is generally fine (they’re usually durable up to normal dryer temps), but if the toy has any glued-on pieces or delicate material (felt cheeks, for example), air drying is safer to prevent the glue from softening.

In any case, avoid high heat, as plastic eyes or acrylic yarn could warp. It’s often a good idea to remove the toy from the dryer while still slightly damp and let it finish air drying to be extra safe.

6. Special Considerations:

If your amigurumi has glued features or accessories, water might weaken the glue. Many safety eyes are not glued but have a snap washer on the back, which generally holds up in washing.

However, if the eyes were additionally glued or if the toy has glued-on felt pieces, test one by dabbing with water to see if the glue starts to dissolve. You might opt to surface clean only in such cases, or be prepared to re-glue something that falls off after washing.

Fortunately, in one washing experiment a crafter did, even the glued googly eyes on a test dummy doll stayed in place after a gentle wash. Still, use your best judgment. For very valuable or sentimental amigurumi, you might lean toward careful hand washing and air drying only.

Once the amigurumi is dry, it should look and smell much better! Give it a gentle hug to re-fluff the stuffing if it feels a little firm (squeezing and releasing a few times helps loosen the stuffing fibers).

Your crochet toy is now clean and ready for more cuddles or display.

One more tip: Because amigurumi often end up in the hands of children, consider washing them before gifting if you used a lot of handling while making them or if the yarn had a factory smell. This ensures the toy is clean and the fibers are relaxed.

Many crocheters do pre-wash amigurumi gifts using the methods above so that parents can feel safe giving them to a baby.

By following these steps, you can clean amigurumi toys without ruining them – no felting, no lost eyes, and no weird lumps of stuffing. They’ll remain just as adorable as ever!

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) about Washing Crochet Items

Q1: Can you wash crochet items?

Yes, you can wash crochet items – in fact, most crochet projects are meant to be used and occasionally washed!

The key is to use the right method for the yarn. Almost all crochet items can be hand washed safely in cold water with a mild detergent. Many sturdier items (like acrylic blankets or cotton accessories) can also be machine washed on a gentle cycle.

Always check if the yarn label has specific instructions. As long as you avoid hot water, harsh agitation, and high heat drying (especially for wool or delicate fibers), your crochet pieces should wash up well without damage.

When in doubt, choose gentle hand washing and lay the item flat to dry.

Q2: Does crochet shrink when washed?

Crochet can shrink when washed if it’s made from a fiber that is prone to shrinkage (and if proper care isn’t taken).

Natural fibers like wool and cotton are the most likely to shrink if exposed to heat or drastic agitation. For example, a wool crochet hat will shrink (felt) if you wash it in hot water or put it in a hot dryer. Cotton can also shrink a bit in hot water or high heat drying, similar to a cotton T-shirt.

However, using cold water and gentle techniques prevents most shrinkage. Acrylic and other synthetic yarns generally do not shrink in the wash – one reason acrylic is popular for blankets is that it holds its size well when washed in cold and laid flat.

To be safe, always wash in cool water and air dry flat. If you avoid heat, you’ll find that your crochet items stay the same size.

In summary, crochet itself doesn’t automatically shrink, but the yarn fiber can. Follow the care guidelines for that fiber to minimize any shrinking.

Q3: How do you dry crochet blankets?

The best way to dry a crochet blanket is to lay it flat and let it air dry. After washing, press out as much water as you can (use the towel roll technique to blot moisture).

Then spread the blanket out on a dry towel or drying rack, supporting it fully. Smooth it back into shape – straighten the edges and gently stretch it to its original dimensions so it dries correctly shaped.

It helps to flip the blanket occasionally and replace the underneath towel once it becomes wet, as this speeds up drying.

Avoid hanging a heavy wet blanket from a clothesline, because the weight will stretch it out of shape. (If you must hang due to space, drape it evenly over multiple lines or bars, not by one edge.)

You can tumble dry most acrylic or cotton blankets on low heat for a short time, but it’s best to remove while damp and finish by air-drying flat.

Wool blankets should never be machine dried – always air dry them flat to prevent shrinkage.

Patience is key: a thick crochet blanket might take 24 hours or more to fully dry, but this gentle approach will keep it plush and properly sized.

Q4: How to clean amigurumi toys without ruining them?

To clean amigurumi (crochet stuffed toys) without damage, use gentle washing and drying methods.

First, try surface cleaning small stains with a damp cloth. For a full wash, hand washing is very safe: immerse the toy in cool water with a bit of mild detergent, swish gently, then rinse.

Squeeze out water without twisting or pulling any parts.

Many amigurumi toys – especially those made of acrylic yarn – can also be placed in a mesh laundry bag and machine washed on delicate, cold water. This protects them during washing.

When it comes to drying, it’s crucial to dry the toy thoroughly. The best method is to lay the toy on a towel in a well-ventilated area and let it air dry, turning it occasionally.

Re-shape the toy (redistribute stuffing) while it’s damp so it dries in the correct form. Avoid high heat.

You can speed up drying by tumble drying on no heat or low heat in short intervals, still inside a laundry bag, but always check frequently.

Make sure any plastic safety eyes are secure and that there are no glued-on pieces that could come loose (if there are, stick to hand washing).

By washing gently and drying fully, your amigurumi will come out clean and just as cute – no felting, no warping – ready for more hugs.

Q5: Can you wash crochet blankets in the washing machine?

Yes, you can wash many crochet blankets in the washing machine if the yarn is machine-safe.

Most modern crochet blankets made from acrylic, cotton, or other washable yarns can handle a gentle machine wash.

Use cold water and a delicate cycle to protect the stitches. It’s wise to wash the blanket by itself (or with a couple of color-similar towels) to reduce friction and avoid color bleed.

Placing the blanket in a large mesh laundry bag can offer extra protection, though not all blankets will fit in a bag.

After the gentle cycle, remove the blanket carefully (support its weight).

Do not use a regular or hot cycle, as that’s too rough – stick to gentle settings.

While machine washing is convenient, the drying method is important: plan to lay the blanket flat to dry (as described above) rather than using a high-heat dryer, which can cause issues.

In summary, machine washing is fine for crochet blankets if you use the right settings and handle the blanket gently.

Always double-check the yarn’s care instructions – if it says “hand wash only” (for example, wool), then avoid the machine.

When done correctly, machine-washing a crochet blanket is an easy way to keep it clean without harming the blanket.

Q6: Should I wash a crochet item before gifting or selling it?

It’s a considerate step to wash or at least rinse a crochet item before gifting or selling, but it’s not strictly required.

Many crocheters choose to give items a quick wash to remove any oils from hands, dust, or starch that might be in the finished object.

Washing also lets you re-block the item so it looks its best when presented.

If you do wash a gift, use the same gentle methods described above and ensure the item is completely dry and clean.

(You can even add a light, safe scent by using a sensitive-skin fabric softener in the rinse, or just keep it fragrance-free for allergy considerations.)

For items coming from a home with pets or smoke, washing is highly recommended to deliver a fresh gift.

On the other hand, if the item is made with a delicate yarn or you’re not 100% confident in washing it yourself, you can instead include care instructions for the recipient and let them wash it when needed.

If you’re selling crochet goods, presenting them clean and nicely finished is a good professional touch.

Just be sure to avoid any detergent or fragrance that could irritate; sticking to gentle, odor-free laundering will suit most people.

And always package the item only once it’s thoroughly dry (to prevent any chance of mildew).

In short, washing before gifting is a nice way to ensure your handmade item arrives in perfect condition and ready to enjoy.

Keep Your Crochet Beautiful

By following this guide, you can confidently wash any crochet creation – handmade crochet clothing, accessories, blankets, and toys – without fear.

Remember, the two biggest rules are: be gentle (with temperature and handling) and support the item’s shape as it dries.

Crochet projects are made to be used and loved, so don’t hesitate to keep them clean.

With the right care, your crochet pieces will stay soft, beautiful, and enduring for a long time.

Happy washing, and even happier crocheting!